Printing And Dyeing Reference: The Influence Of Surfactant Types On The Dyeing And Color Resistance Of Semi Permanent Alkaline Hair Dyes

　　 Abstract: Basic brown 16 pigment and three types of surfactants are used to prepare cationic, non-ionic and anionic basic hair dyes. White hair and bleached hair were dyed with three basic hair dyes, and the acid, neutral and alkaline shampoos formulated in the study were used for 10 times. Compared with cationic and non-ionic alkaline hair dyes, anionic alkaline hair dyes have lower L *, a * and b * values and lower K/S values for white and bleached hair. The results are statistically significant α = 0.05。 Hair dyed with anionic alkaline hair dye shows significantly higher Δ L *、 Δ a *、 Δ B * and Δ E * The ab value after 10 shampoos is higher than that after cationic and non-ionic alkaline hair dyes（ α= 0.05), indicating that the color resistance of anionic alkaline hair dyes is low. When using alkaline shampoo, the color difference after shampooing is significantly higher（ α = 0.05)。 In general, the color difference after shampoo is more caused by the type of dye than the type of shampoo.

　　 Introduction: As a means of showing body image and covering white hair, hair dyeing has become a popular beauty practice for a wide range of age groups (Lee&Kim, 2020; Yun, 2019). The widely used hair dye is an oxidizing permanent hair dye with excellent color resistance (Lee&Kim, 2020). However, the ingredients in oxidizing permanent hair dyes may cause allergic symptoms and may damage hair (Lee&Kim, 2020). Paraphenylenediamine (PPD), the main component of oxidative hair dyes, irritates eyes, causes asthma after inhalation, and may cause skin irritation, contact dermatitis, and kidney damage caused by skin contact (Seydi et al., 2019) At present, the hair dyeing industry is working hard to develop hair dyes that are safe for the body, easy to use and do not contain PPD (Lee&Kim, 2020). With this trend, people are increasingly interested in temporary or semi permanent hair dyes, which have lower color resistance than permanent hair dyes, but are safer and more convenient (Lee&Kim, 2020).

Among semi permanent hair dyes, alkaline hair dyes are composed of cationic and alkaline pigments (Massoni, 2004). Alkaline hair dye is a direct dye, which does not require PPD, hydrogen peroxide and alkali to dye hair (Fran ç a et al., 2015; Hehner et al., 2002). The color of permanent hair dyes is generated in the cortex of the hair through oxidation reaction, while alkaline hair dyes apply alkaline (cationic) pigments to the hair in its colored form (Tucker, 1971). Alkaline hair dyes will not cause oxidative damage to hair and skin, and the staining method is simple (Fran ç a et al., 2015; Hehner et al., 2002).

In June 2016, the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety of the Republic of Korea issued Notice No. 2016-49 "Partial Revision of Cosmetic Color Types, Standards and Test Methods", allowing the use of nine basic pigments in hair dye products (Institute of the Ministry of Health Industry Development of the Republic of Korea, 2020; Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, 2016). Alkaline Brown 16 (C 19 H 21 ClN 4 O, CI 12250, CAS No. 26381-41-9) is one of the nine pigments used in the hair dye industry since June 2016 (Korea Institute of Health Industry Development, 2020); Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, 2016; Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, 2013) Basic Brown 16 is classified as a monoazo (– N=N –) compound with a molecular weight of 356.86 and is water-soluble (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, 2013). The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety of the European Commission (SCCS) defined alkaline brown 16 as a direct pigment that can be used without oxidation and can be used at a concentration of up to 2.0% on the head (SCCS, 2013).

Franca et al. (2015) explained that pH control of alkaline hair dyes is a necessary condition for color stability. Several studies have shown that the pH value of dyes may affect the color or dyeing ability of basic hair dyes (Fran ç a et al., 2015; Hehner et al., 2002; Indrawati et al., 2017). However, compared with the research on permanent hair dyes, the research on basic hair dyes is very limited, so it is difficult to put forward specific ideas on the dyeing behavior and appropriate formula of basic hair dyes. Some examples of available research include Fran ç a et al. (2015) who suggested adding weak base to make the pH value of dyes reach 9.0, and then adding weak acid to reduce the pH value to 6.0. Semi permanent hair dye prepared by Indrawati et al. (2017) showed pH values of 6.50 – 6.25 using natural cationic pigments. Existing research shows that there are some differences in the formulation of basic hair dyes, including the pH value. Considering the growing market of semi permanent hair dyes, it seems necessary to carry out more empirical research in order to establish a consistent basis for the formulation of basic hair dyes.

The purpose of this study is to study the effect of surfactant types on the color, dyeing strength and dyeing resistance of semi permanent alkaline hair dyes. For this purpose, Basic Brown 16 (Arianor ® Mahogany 306002, France) was used as pigment and cationic, non-ionic or anionic surfactants were added as emulsifiers to prepare three basic hair dyes. Dye white hair (WH) and bleached hair (BH), the former is commercially bleached white hair, and the latter is experimentally bleached. White hair simulates white hair dyeing, and bleached hair simulates basic hair dyeing and fashion dyeing. Three shampoos with different pH values were also prepared and used in the hair washing process.

　　 Methods and materials

The Asian Virgin Hair Tablet (VH) and White Hair Tablet (WH) used in the study were purchased from Beauty World (South Korea). Hair bleach was purchased from Sewha P&C (South Korea). The first package of sodium metasilicate was alkaline, and the second package was 6% hydrogen peroxide oxidant. 40 g Basic Brown 16(Arianor ® Mahogany 306002, France) pigment is provided by Chang Hyup Trading (Korea). Hydroxyethylcellulose (CAS No. 9004-62-0), distilled water, cetearyl alcohol (CAS No. 67762-27-0), glyceryl monostearate SE, Tween 60 (polysorbate 60, CAS No. 9005-67-8), Arlacel 60 (dehydrated sorbitol stearate), stearin trimethyl ammonium chloride (CAS No. 112-03-8), dodecyl ammonium sulfate (ALS, CAS No. 2235-54-3) are used to prepare alkaline hair dyes. Distilled water, guar gum (guar gum hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, CAS No. 65497-29-2), polymer JR 400 (polyquaternium-10, CAS No. 81859-24-7), ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ALES, CAS No. 32612-48-9), sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES, CAS No. 3088-31-1), polydimethylsiloxane (CAS No. 9006-65-9), sodium chloride and sodium hydroxide are used to prepare shampoo. The water used to prepare alkaline hair dyes is purified by the water purification system of Human Corporation (Korea).

　　 Preparation of experimental hair dye

The three hair dyes are cationic basic hair dye (CBD), non-ionic basic hair dye (NBD) and anionic basic hair dye (ABD). The composition of three basic hair dyes is shown in Table 1 For each hair dye, add distilled water, hydroxyethyl cellulose, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate SE, Tween 60 and Arlacel 60 in equal amounts. In this basic composition, stearin trimethyl ammonium chloride is added to CBD, and lauryl ammonium sulfate is added to ABD. For the aqueous phase, distilled water, thickener and magnetic rod are added to the beaker. Heat the beaker on the stirring hot plate to 80 ° C, and use the Mark II (model 2.5) homogenizer mixer (TK PRIMIX, Japan) to completely dissolve the thickener at 3000 rpm. In this beaker, Basic Brown 16 is added and thoroughly mixed using a homogenizer (3000 rpm). For the oil phase, mix cetyl stearin, monostearin SE, polysorbate 60 and Arlacel 60 in a beaker and heat to 80 ° C on a stirring hot plate. NBD is prepared by placing the oil phase in the water phase, mixing for 5 minutes, and then cooling in a water bath. Add stearin trimethyl ammonium chloride for CBD and lauryl ammonium sulfate (ALS) for ABD to the oil phase according to the same procedure as above.

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